#4 Fashion Reporter's Language
On The Runway
Of all the other blogs out there on the internet, one that I recommend is On The Runway by the NY Times. It shows both the negative and positive aspects of any fashion event that has been going on within the industry. Cathy Horn is one of the main writers of this blog, and she writes such honesty and opinions that can make or break any designers' current looks.
Here is one her most recent entries to On The Runway:
The Wealth of Experience
Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York TimesThe designer Hussein Chalayan as a waiter during his spring 2012 show.
Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York TimesHussein Chalayan’s fall 2012 collection includes hologram pants.
“I’VE
been doing this so long I don’t even think about it,” Hussein Chalayan
said on Friday as models cheered after a stellar show. “It’s just
instinctual.”
Mr. Chalayan’s clothes reflect nearly 20 years of
knowledge: innovative cutting, meditations on culture and identity and,
inevitably, the struggles of an independent London designer. An
exhibition in Paris last year gave insight into his early work as it
illuminated an entire creative period in fashion.
Coverage from in and around the Paris shows.
I
first met Mr. Chalayan in the mid-’90s, around the time he was doing
some clothes for Björk, and I remember his show with the topiary dresses
at Sadler’s Wells Theatre. As ingenious as some of his shows were, he
is known for making simple, flattering dresses and sporty separates.
And, in a way, as fashion has shifted toward dressy and conceptual
clothes, his kind of minimalism feels just right.
His spring 2012
show drew raves for both the clothes and presentation. Dressed as a
waiter, he handed a Champagne flute to each model as she came out;
inside was a tiny camera, and as she pretended to take a sip, her lips
and mouth were projected on a huge screen in the background. It took a
moment to figure out what was happening, but it was a playful, erotic
gesture that worked well with the sensibility of the clothes.
This
season, Mr. Chalayan is again using reflective fabrics, mainly a
hologram material that he developed for skinny pants. The silver tone
has a fantastic depth, and the pants looked best with a spare coat in
gray wool and matching silver sneakers. Other coats and tunics in
neutral tones had panels of bright orange and green. Many outfits had a
slight athletic vibe, but Mr. Chalayan also showed beautifully cut long
dresses and several brown leather jackets that had a soft, almost
sculptural shape, and no obvious hardware. Such restraint and know-how
is difficult to find.
Late last year, while in London, I had lunch
with Mr. Chalayan, and he said he sometimes feels like “a middle child”
in the fashion industry. “In the market right now, it’s either the
young designers who get retail support or the really established
designers,” he said. “The ones in between get left out.” He wasn’t
complaining, just making an observation. He actually had a pretty good
spring sales season, he said, and he is expanding his own
e-commerce business.
“The only thing we can rely on is our identity, our customers and
reaching more people directly through the Internet,” he said, adding:
“It’s a really good time for me now. I know how I can do things better.”
Here is an interpretation of her terms used within the entry:
Silhouette & Design:
- innovative cutting
- simple, flattering dresses and sporty seperates
- beautiful cut long dresses
- soft sculptural shape
Details:
- no obvious hardware
- minimalism
Color:
- silver tone
- bright orange and green
Fabric:
- reflective fabrics
- hologram material
Creative "Jargon":
- stellar show
- mediations on culture and identity
- conceptual clothes
